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Beautiful unlabeled vintage black sculptural vest, likely dating to the late 1980s or early 1990s, purchased in New York.
An exceptionally elegant and unusual piece with a finely woven black tailored front and a lightweight, fluid acetate-like fabric forming the back. The front has a minimal sleeveless tailored silhouette with notched lapels and no closure, while the dramatically extended back is designed to be gathered, folded, draped and secured with the long metal pin.
The pin can be repositioned through the fabric, allowing the wearer to manipulate the volume and completely change the silhouette. It can be gathered closely into a sculptural bustle-like form or worn more loosely so that the back falls in long, fluid panels. The very open construction, wide armholes and lack of a front closure give the piece an unusually flexible, essentially free-size fit.
There are no surviving designer, size, or fiber-content labels. When I purchased the piece, it was thought to possibly be an unlabeled early designer piece, with Jil Sander suggested, but the maker cannot be confirmed and it is being sold as unbranded. The minimal tailoring and experimental, transformable construction are wonderfully characteristic of late-1980s/early-1990s avant-garde fashion.
Measurements / Fit
- Pit to pit: approx. 17\" flat across the front
- Length: approx. 32\" at shortest point / 36\" at longest point
- Wide, open armholes
- Open front with no closure
- Unmarked size; flexible/free-size construction
Please note that the 17\" flat measurement should not be interpreted as a conventional 34\" bust measurement—the garment does not enclose the torso like a standard fitted vest.
Condition
Good vintage condition. The lightweight back fabric shows small pinpricks from previous placement of the adjustable metal pin, consistent with the garment’s intended sculptural styling and use. A small pin hole is also present in the back fabric away from the pin and is photographed. Minor general vintage wear throughout. No designer, size, or fiber-content labels present. Please review all photographs closely for condition and construction.
A really special piece of anonymous, androgynous design—restrained and beautifully tailored from the front, with an unexpectedly experimental, almost architectural construction at the back.
From a smoke-free and pet-free home. Carefully packed for shipping. Please feel free to contact me with any questions or requests for additional measurements.
