Best Fit Turbo Resonator Eliminator For 02-06 Sprinter 2.7 W/UPGRADED O-RING For Sale

• please be sure you area buying the correct listing-- I sell individual O-rings, custom made best fit turbo resonators with the upgraded o-ring, lube for install, tips and tricks for installation, extra spare hose clamp and q-tip for cleaning.
• Fast CA shipping. Directly packaged by a mechanic who has personally done this repair and you can chat with.
• Our O-rings are much more expensive and upgraded thickness and size to match out resonators and fix a common boost leak at the resonator / resonator o-ring. I have seem them leak at both.
• 100% positive response seller at time of writing description which we are proud of. But we believe in honesty from our buyers and we admit mistakes when they happen. We, however do not easily hand out partial refunds or anything like that without the product back in our hands or talking to us directly so we can help you pinpoint the issue. That being said if you get it and you just don't need it anymore in the time period of our return policy we will happily take it back (i think one person returned one so far once because their sprinter got in an accident before they could install it).
• We appreciate your business!

Durable Aluminum Turbo Resonator Eliminator for Sprinter T1N (2001-2006)Others are selling ones with unknown O-rings for $80 + shipping. They claim it is OEM o ring but honestly who really would ever know. I, however, took a bunch of time when I was fixing my buddies van when I noticed his o-ring was also leaking to try to not spend $30 at the dealership (have you ever been to a dealership parts department as just a customer? They literally ignore you, then ask you for a vin number even though you have model number everything, then pick up the phone 18 times while you wait, then they say they don't sell it individually, then they say itll be here in a week but you pay now, then they say it is $200 dollars and then when you say you saw it online for $28 they say oh let me see--- ok yeah i got it for you at $28 boss. All kinds of headache. for a failed part.
I researched and sourced custom o-rings that are ever so slightly larger and a better sealing compound-- also, these are made to be exact fits with my aluminum resonators.

Upgrade your van's reliability and ditch the factory's common failure point. It's not just a part; it's peace of mind for your vehicle. Our kit comes with:

1. 1 Turbo Resonator Aluminum,
2. 1 Upgraded O-Ring,
3. Lubricant for slippery good install that is non corrosive / water based
4. Printed out tips and tricks for install included in the box (email me if too small to read for you i print them on my thermal printer 4x6). And i will email it.
5. Funny Cartons on the box
6. extra back up hose clamp (just reuse your old one-- its adapted to the size and I reuse hose clamps a lot over installing different styles just for consistency makes working on the car easier in future as well). But good to have backup clamp or feel free to use it. If you want to get a really nice high end clamp for these I can source them just reach out. They have like a rubberized plastic coating over the worm gears so absolutely no pinching / cutting occurs. Just in case you want to go all out.

** if you order this kit and want a spare o-ring included (so youll get two) in case one gets damaged during install-- we all started somewhere doing car repair and I have broken my fair share of stuff that was just beginner error or rushing and not paying attention. or you just want to have one in the truck for backup reach out and can include an extra for $14.99 (like i said these aren't cheap) You can however get cheaper o-rings for sure that might suit you just fine, not telling you how to walk your walk i just can't take that risk on a customers car / want to risk it.

YOU MAY NEED TO enlarge the holes on the aluminum new resonator sometimes your engine has settled or the angle is different than the average. This is not a big deal at all just make sure you put washers over your bolts if the holes are wider than the bolt heads.
---PS if you think the welds are the resonator are off according to a guy who swaps these all day long (he has never had one that was bad because of the welds) it is likely that you're either doing the install wrong or your alternator bracket is bent. He has had to take those off and bend them or get new ones before. But also you can try making the holes on the resonator slightly larger just be sure to use loctite and also that it is still a tight fit. I recommend waiting to do that until you've determined you don't want to deal with bracket on alternator, and you have had a friend try it who has experience finagling with small bolts in tight spaces. This is very much a "feel" type mechanical job where you need to use muscle memory from starting lots of bolts in tight spaces without cross threading etc.

**The new lot of these rings is a brownish color, with no difference in quality. Same Specs.

Product Highlights & Benefits

• Permanent Fix:Our machined aluminum Eliminator is designed to last the life of the vehicle..
• Eliminate Failures:Completely removes the factory weak point, giving you peace of mind to take your Sprinter anywhere.
• Superior O-Ring:Includes a high-performance, oil-resistant O-ring compound superior to the OEM material that deforms or stiffens and always boost pressure to leak.
• Comprehensive Kit:Includes the aluminum part, upgraded O-ring, water-based lubricant for a smooth install, and a new hose clamp.

Compatibility

This part is compatible with Mercedes-Benz, Dodge, Chrysler, and Freightliner-branded T1Ns (2001-2006 models):

• Engine:2.7L 5-Cylinder Diesel (DOHC Turbocharged)
• Models:Fits both 2500 and 3500 versions.
• Part #:DP0208

Installation Tips & Notes

• **Slight Noise Increase:** The only minor downside is a slightly increased turbo noise once the muffling device is removed.
• **Mechanical Inclination:** Installation isn't difficult but requires a good feel for working in tight spaces and aligning bolts.
• **Hardware Suggestions:** Consider using high-quality hex head (10mm) bolts instead of the OEM Torx bolts just so that future you can remove them easier (you will always be able to get a 10mm socket from any little toolbox you brought on a roadtrip. Finding the right torx to fit and not stripping it out-- much harder. Always use blue Loctite for safety. tiny drop is fine.
• **Fitment Tip:** Start both bolts by hand first and leave play; a slight widening of a hole on aftermarket parts may sometimes be necessary for a perfect line-up.

About the Seller & Shipping

West Coast Curations- lots of positive response & a few difficult people (but hey it is retail and sometimes we all take it out / or i make a mistake and you genuinely have the right to be mad / upset. We do our best and we are a small shop you talk to us not a dropshipper. We sell a little bit of everything with value in mind.

• **Shipping:** Usually ships by the next business day from California. Please allow 1-5 business days for delivery.
• **Prop 65 Compliant:** Warning: CA Prop 65 compliant.

Understanding Plastic Turbo Resonator Failure

The original plastic assembly is designed to muffle the turbocharger's intake sound. It is made of injection molded plastic parts that are bonded together.

A typical failure happens under maximum boost (climbing a hill or accelerating with a load). The parts separate, allowing boost air to escape the intake system. When this fails, you may find a shop that misdiagnosis it as a bad turbo or bad engine or some other crazy expensive thing (or they just want to sell you a much bigger ticket job. Also Dealership doesn't do any aftermarket parts even if they are better. Plus the way it works now is almost all the technicians at dealerships are YOUNG. They have not worked on these sprinters. They are good with cars 1-5 years old is basically it (anything still in warranty. It is not like the old days dealerships do NOT have the best technicians. Find the guys that are older but maybe had some dealership experience or dedicate themselves to Sprinters or diesels and have been around the block.

** and before i get angry messages from dealership technicians. Listen I know some of you are amazing at your jobs and make good money. Just saying it used to be different and people can't bank on getting someone to look at their 20 year old sprinter, who has wrenching time on them when they were under warranty, when most of the guys and gals working are like 20-35 years old. Plus anyone that does have experience on these sprinters knows they can make a killing now just being a sprinter only shop or selling the engine parts (rebuilding the engines or heads)

PSA about counterfeit parts in 2026 not related to this listing at all:

Also the same is not true for parts always, do NOT BUY anything that could a counterfeit or fake on Amazon or or anywhere that is not either a very reputable online seller, if you're buying a name brand part like say Denso that is fine to buy at Oreilly or Autozone as they get direct from them, but do not buy their replacement aftermarket parts that are slightly cheaper. They are the worst of the worst nowadays. Even dealership parts are having a lot more quality control problems right now it is all over the automotive industry. new parts are coming out of the box bad.

** Injectors are being faked full on with correct stamping everything (but still noticeable errors) if they 50% less than dealership but claim they are OEM and you can't find them anywhere near that price on rockauto or other legit places-- then 9/10 those are fakes.

Spark plugs are being faked

Sensors are being faked (so you think you are getting OEM and you're getting absolute garbage but then you presume its not the sensor or the injectors you just installed because how could it be--- you got OEM. That is why you also need to keep all your old parts if you are removing an OEM sensor KEEP IT. in case you can't figure it out tell the mechanic and give them the box of parts. Buying used OEM is 1000x better than buying new "amazing deal" stuff on any online website.

FB marketplace is now full of fake dewalt and milwaukee tools as well and batteries.

Brake pads are for sure being faked

Also why has it gotten so bad? Because no one is doing anything to stop it. The government or consumer protection agencies have all been gutted and so yeah it is free for all right now with quality control etc.

** Avoid anything Dorman period. They just stink lol.

Product Highlights & Benefits

• Permanent Fix: Our machined aluminum Eliminator is designed to last the life of the vehicle..
• Eliminate Failures: Completely removes the factory weak point, giving you peace of mind to take your Sprinter anywhere.
• Superior O-Ring: Includes a high-performance, oil-resistant O-ring compound far superior to the OEM material that degrades over time due to heat and oil exposure.
• Comprehensive Kit: Includes the aluminum part, upgraded O-ring, water-based lubricant for a smooth install, and a new hose clamp.

Compatibility

This part is compatible with Mercedes-Benz, Dodge, Chrysler, and Freightliner-branded T1Ns (2001-2006 models):

• Engine: 2.7L 5-Cylinder Diesel (DOHC Turbocharged)
• Models: Fits both 2500 and 3500 versions.
• Part #: DP0208
• Dorman makes an aftermarket plastic version that is junk. This is what they call it just including it here so people searching for that one might be saved from buying it.Turbo Vibration DampenerThis turbocharger vibration dampener is designed to match the fit and function of the original dampener on specified vehicles, and is engineered for durability and reliable performance.Features & Benefits:
  
  • Direct replacement - this turbocharger vibration dampener is designed to match the fit and function of the original dampener on specified vehicles
  • Durable construction - this part is made from quality materials to ensure reliable performance and long service life
  • Restores functionality - reliable replacement for an original part that has failed due to vibration, heat or cracking
  • Trustworthy quality - backed by team of product experts in the United States and more than a century of automotive experience
  • OEM / Interchange Numbers: 5137154AA, 5137154AB, 5137154ACDODGESPRINTER 25002004-2006DODGESPRINTER 35002004-2006FREIGHTLINERSPRINTER 25002004-2006FREIGHTLINERSPRINTER 35002004-2006

Installation Tips & Notes

• **Slight Noise Increase:** The only minor downside is a slightly increased turbo noise once the muffling device is removed.
• **Mechanical Inclination:** Installation isn't difficult but requires a good feel for working in tight spaces and aligning bolts.
• **Hardware Suggestions:** Consider using high-quality hex head (10mm) bolts instead of the OEM Torx bolts for easier handling. Always use blue Loctite for safety.
• **Fitment Tip:** Start both bolts by hand first and leave play; a slight widening of a hole on aftermarket parts may sometimes be necessary for a perfect line-up.

Read below for my list of funny mess ups I have had over the years working on cars / car stories. Totally unrelated to this post and I don't expect anyone to actually read them haha.
Some other cheap and good things to do for your sprinter:Change fuel filterRun some type of lubricant booster in your diesel i dk which brand is best do some youtube scrubbing to see from unbiased people.Change your glow plugs often and use anti sieze to just keep them from seizing in your engine and stripping when you remove them. Remove them when engine is hot and work them back and forth. if it feels like it is or might break then either take it to a diesel shop and ask or just leave it as it isn't worth breaking it off. if it is still working then unless i comes out easy don't break it. Why it is good idea to do them often so you don't get check engine code / have problems down the road.Do fairly often oil changes nothing crazy. Can run a good oil filter or use cheaper ones and just change them out without draining oil just swap them mid oil change. But ones that have lower PPM counts are betterif it is easy to do then EGR cleaning is a good idea and if it has any PCV system to make sure that is functinoing and clean. i forget on these vans exactly how that is set up.A replacement turbo not from the dealership is actually kind of affordable on rockauto / used OEM might be even cheaper on . Don't bring it to dealer for any work. The new young techs have no idea how to work on old sprinters, and even if they do, the parts will be $3000 for a turbo vs $200-800 for used OEM or aftermarket-- and, it might not even be the problem.Buy a boost leak tester kit for $60 off or amazon and check for boost leaks on the entire system. Pressurize to 20lbs and then go up to around 30-40lbs as that is actually what it will hi sometimes. use spray bottle soapy water or just your ears to listen but both are good ideas. or use a smoke machine.Watch youtube videos about how the turbos work on these vans, how to set the actuator arm / tune it / what check engine codes / what scanners are bi driectnoal and useful on these vans.i have a launch scanner i bought used from a shop owner for $500 (1400$) pro level scan tool and there isn't a day that goes by that i am not happy ibought it. t can do so much and opens the door for so many things you didn't even know you could do (activitating coolant fans / bleeding brakes / programming keys / graphing live data / printing out receipts / reports, emailing customers CEL code reports ETC.) Launch is best for compatibility and optinos, but worst for user interface being easy to figure out. it took me years to realize i could do certain things just because i should've watched videos on it and never did. So make sure you watch videos about what your scan tool can do.
About the Seller & ShippingHere are some funny / random car repair / mistakes / things I have done or witnessed:
About the Seller: Lessons Learned the Hard WayI’ve been wrenching on cars since I was a kid. If there is a mistake to be made, I’ve probably made it (and paid for it). I don't just sell parts; I’ve lived/still live the "project car" lifestyle. Right now have a 2000 Mazda Miata, 1998 4runner, 2004 Nissan Murano, 2005 Toyota Prius, and about 6 motorcycles. I paid the most for the Miata at 3500 the 4runner is a friends I just got done with, but the others are usually family or friends asking me if I want it before they junk it because something broke. Here are a few highlights from my years in the garage:
The "Double-Time" Subaru Engine PullOn my first Subaru engine pull and head gasket job, I got it all back together and fired it up. Oh it sounded great, and I thought I was the bees knees. That didn't last long. My friend immediately started yelling "Kill it!" I jumped out to find a massive pool of oil. Turns out, I’d installed the head gaskets upside down, blocking the oil passages (luckily only one side). The engine had to come back out immediately—though I was significantly faster the second time.
The "Impressive" First DateIn college, a girl asked if I could change her oil. I brought out a chair for her so she could watch how "fast and skilled" I was. While talking her ear off, I poured five quarts of brand-new oil into the engine... only for her to point out the massive puddle growing by my feet.. I’d forgotten the drain plug. I ended up buying her more oil, doing the job for free, and scrubbing my driveway before my housemates saw the mess. Suffice to say there wasn't a second date.
The 60mph "Ghost Tire"I once had a lifted Toyota 22RE truck (one of many in College times) I had only owned it maybe a week and hadn't checked anything besides fluids. While driving 60mph on the freeway, the back end suddenly dropped and I heard a horrific screeching. Before I could even process it, I watched my own rear tire pass me in a perfectly straight line down the highway. The CHP had to go find the tire, they made me drive it off the freeway a 1/2 mile on the rear axle, and I ended up selling the truck in the shop parking lot the very next day. Lesson learned-- I dk, make sure you actually have all the studs left if you have huge tires on a lifted truck (I think there was only like 4 on the yota when it sheared.
The Mustang "Blind Fold"I’ve seen how high the stakes are when you rush. A buddy left a customer’s Mustang hood on the first latch. On the freeway test drive, the hood flew up, smashed the windshield, and he had to literally drive off the freeway Ace Ventura style while contemplating many things about his life lol. It was a $2,000 body shop bill and a terrifying reminder to always double-check the simple things.
Project Car Chronicles:
The 4Runner Missile: I once used a hydraulic jack to press out lower control arm bushings. The kinetic energy built up until the rusted bushing finally broke loose and shot 20 feet into the ceiling. Now I always keep my face away from anything under pressure.
The Exploding Rotor: I tried using an old rotor as a backing plate on a press. I didn't realize I was pressing the wrong way; the pressure built until the rotor exploded. Cast iron doesn't bend, it shatters.
The "Sketchy" Integra: I once bought a clapped-out Acura Integra super late at night, after a breakup when I had no way to get back to Santa Cruz, and I wanted out of there, that literally shot oil out of the exhaust like a squid. It was the most sketchy probably flood damaged clean title car I had ever seen, I sold it a few days later to some guys who insisted on paying cash at 10 PM and didn't even want a test drive. I still suspect that car had a "colorful" history.
The Smog Shop Saga: I recently had a car fail smog because the very young smog tech with perfectly manicured long nails / clean as a whistle mistook cold-weather condensation for "visible smoke." I had to go to a second shop who immediately said they would pass me, but that they didn't want to because it would look bad on their record (passing a car that had just failed somewhere else). They told me to go back and just try to hope someone is there that works on cars. Luckily there was, and it passed. At a smog shop once they decide they are failing you you are like rotten trash, they know youll be mad / they arent going to change it since it would look bbad on their record so its one of the more frustrating experiences of just being totally shut out./ nobody will even discuss it with you. But luckily next day calmer heads prevailed and they passed it.
Autozone Parts:bought a drive axle for a friends car (CV axle) at Autozone for stupidly expensive (I really don’t like paying Autozone prices for the same thing you can get on Amazon or Rockauto for 1/4 the price). But my friend needed his car and it wasn’t my money. So I buy the CV axle on my friends insistence that that was the issue, and I get to his car and the wheel bearing is shot not the axle. So I take the axle back the next day with the receipt, the box, I never even opened the box. Well I go up to the counter and it turns out to be the manager working who I had seen in there many times, but we just never spoke / I dealt with this other guy who gave me rock auto prices (I had commercial account)— which is maybe why the manager didn’t like me because literally I have never found another person that even comes close to matching their prices (why I never shop there anymore). But yeah he opens the box and low and behold the axle in it is absolutely a used axle all smeared in grease and clearly someone (who he now thinks is me) is trying to pull a fast one on them. Well I am pretty upset and getting pretty vocal about the fact that they sold me a $140 axle that is a $20 China special and they sold me a used returned broken axle? Well, the manager starts yelling at me that I am trying to return a used part and that he isn’t giving me any money back. Let’s just say I am not welcome at that Autozone anymore— but, I walked out with my $140. Why I literally think auto parts stores are the worst experience in the entire shopping world.You ever go there and you just need like front brake pads or like a brake light. And they ask you like “does your car have heated seats in the rear middle seat?” “Is it a 4 cylinder from the factory in Mexico? Or the one in Mexico but one town over. Yeah we are going to need that information. No boss I can’t just check the two models and see if it is the same part— don’t you see that line behind you boss?
Yeah if I never have to go into an auto parts store again in my life I will be a happy man. Can you think of a worse retail experience? Seriously try me. It is also always your fault they gave you the wrong part, or they have never heard of that part ever being bad. Like okay, slow down there buddy you have worked here for three days. Napa is the funniest and probably the best, because the guys always on the phone and writing down parts numbers scribbling on a pad and it looks like yes he is going to get it right! Then he comes back like five minutes later scratching his head— ah yeah what year did you say that was again? This happens like three more times before he finally finds the right part. Then you pay dealership price but hey at least you can say you have AAA and get 10% off at Napa.
Rockauto is legit for parts but their returns / warranty stuff is basically let’s just make this as difficult as possible so you can’t do it and then the customer just burns out and forgets about it. If you don’t answer one of the 50 questions right “is the box perfect” “was it damaged during shipping” “did you examine all part numbers and are they the right part for your vehicle” “have you tried just hitting it with a larger hammer” it will be like “sorry no return” and then you can’t go back and change the answer.
Amazon is pulling ahead , but lots of fakes and don’t buy anything you expect to be of quality / lots of fake reviews nowadays as well. But for like easy to install / you’re going to buy the same quality at whatever auto parts store around you but pay 10x the price. It is worth it to just buy two different ones on amazon and see if one works. For example, a wheel speed sensor on my Nissan Murano. $15 amazon shipped next day, worked great, bought one as spare, takes 1 minute to swap, not going to leave me on side of the road, then totally fine buying on Amazon. A mass air flow sensor on any car **never buy on amazon** anything spark, fuel, sensor related.
If you do ever replace any OEM parts ( I am talking sensors, injectors, spark plugs online (tons are being faked now and look super convincing but are total junk)with aftermarket parts trying to fix a problem / you likely may of created a new problem / swap back to the OEM parts and then get a diagnostic done. Most good technicians will tell you they want the OEM sensors, injectors, etc back in the car before they can do a diagnostic. A weird MAF sensor from Dorman can do enough weird stuff to not through a CEL but leave the car bucking and stalling randomly. Dont believe me watch Pine hollow auto diagnostics, South Main Auto, or any pro YouTuber who wrenches and they will all talk about the quality has gone so far down on every part. OEM and dealer parts are also probe to just laziness / quality control issues etc. South main auto recently got a new transmission from Chevrolet from the dealership for a customers truck (prob 2500 $ transmission) and they sent him a used core in a box that had stamped “quality control checked”. Obviously dumb mistake, but cost him a day of waiting tons of frustration, and no one pays him back for time lost. Whatever you do, do not throw away the used parts / sensors / injectors etc if you replaced them and didn’t buy them at the dealership directly. Even then still keep them for awhile and spares unless you super know they are bad.Why buy from me? Because I know what it’s like to be halfway through a job and realize you have the wrong part or a sheared bolt. I’ve survived the engine drops, the sheared ABS sensors, and the "broken Sprinter in the driveway" phase. I’m honest about what I sell because I’ve been the guy on the other end of the wrench too many times to count.

West Coast Curations-- we have pretty good positive response if I must say so myself. We sell a little bit of everything with value in mind.

• **Shipping:** Usually ships by the next business day from California. Please allow 1-5 business days for delivery.
• **Prop 65 Compliant:** Warning: CA Prop 65 compliant.

i made myself kind of a beginner overlander list of parts i would maybe buy or pick at pick n pull or buy used OEM cheap on to keep as stock back ups. Some of the things are just good to replace but parts on rock are good prices the .com place.
2004 DODGE SPRINTER 2500 2.7L L5 DIESEL TurbochargedDrivetrain : Axle Shaft BearingASCHAEFFLER FC671485Rear; 9.25" Heavy-Duty Ring Gear; 41.12 mm Inside Diameter; 0.830 In Wide Bearing$7.17$7.17Drivetrain : Axle Shaft SealESKF 16404Fits Rear; w/ 8.250, 8.375 Ring Gear
or Rear; 8.250", 8.375" Ring Gear; w/ 9.25 Ring Gear$2.53$2.53Cooling System : Radiator CapEGATES 31525 OE Type18 psi Pressure Rating$3.47$3.47Cooling System : ThermostatEÜRO PARTS 6462001215 Includes Housing, Gasket & Sensor$26.79$26.79Cooling System : Water PumpAWJB / INMOTION PARTS WU6007Protect your new Water Pump from contamination with a complete Cooling System Flush prior to installation.Refill the system with fresh, OE approved Coolant / Antifreeze after installation.$47.79$47.79Instant 10% Off Manufacturer Rebate!-$4.78Electrical : Starter MotorETYC 118360Bosch Brand$87.79$87.79Exhaust & Emission : EGR GasketDVICTOR REINZ 711454100$4.97$4.97Engine : Oil FilterBMANN HU7181KSynthetic Oil Application. Premium filter recommendedDo you also need Oil?
$4.78$9.56Fuel & Air : Air FilterBMANN C32338Don't forget about your Cabin Air Filter! It's probably just as dirty and helps keep things like odor and pollen out.
$16.38$16.38Cooling System : Radiator Fan ClutchDSKP SK9202270Do you also need a Radiator Fan Clutch Wrench?
$36.89$36.89AÜRO PARTS 0002009723 ThermalFan Clutch w/ Fan Blade AssemblyDo you also need a Radiator Fan Clutch Wrench?
$83.79$83.79Ignition : Diesel Glow PlugCBOSCH 80036(Only 5 Remaining)Because glow plugs are exposed to very harsh conditions, their life spans don't vary much. We recommend replacing Glow Plugs as a complete set to avoid future failures.
$8.96$44.80Ignition : Camshaft Position SensorAHOLSTEIN 2CAM0024$18.09$18.09Ignition : Crankshaft Position SensorDNTK EH0269$20.99$20.99Cooling System : Radiator HoseAREIN CHR0919Lower$14.36$14.36AREIN CHE0879 Coolant Hose Color: BlackLower$15.67$15.67EDAYCO 72334 CurvedUpperSelected[Wholesaler Closeout-- 30 Day Warranty]($14.91)[Regular Inventory]($22.79)$14.91$14.91Engine : Valve Cover GasketEAJUSA 11080700$20.79$20.79Exhaust & Emission : Manifold Pressure (MAP) SensorEÜRO PARTS 0051535028MAP Sensor$18.75$18.75Cooling System : Intercooler Air Hose / PipeAGATES 26272 Turbocharger Hose Molded; StandardIntercooler To Engine (Cold Side - Left); w/ FED. Emissions$82.79$82.79CDORMAN 904097Turbocharger To Intercooler (Hot Side); 15" Line : Transmission FluidDACDELCO 1092431.7 qt (US quarts) capacityAdding Transmission Fluid Conditioner to new Transmission Fluid can extend fluid life and reduce wear throughout your transmission.
$7.19$35.95Drivetrain : Gear OilAVALVOLINE 889785 Full Synthetic SAE 75W-90 Gear Oil; 1 Quart Flex FillRear DifferentialSelected($11.27/Each){1}+ $11.27($11.69/Each){4}+ $46.76+ Sold in packs of x$11.27$45.08Cooling System : Water Pump Inlet TubeCGATES 24773 MoldedAuxiliary Water Pump Inlet$23.79$23.79Cooling System : Intercooler JunctionBDORMAN 904305 Intercooler Junction$30.89$30.892014 TOYOTA PRIUS V 1.8L L4 ELECTRIC/GASEngine : Oil FilterDVARIOUS MFR PG6311EX Extended Life; Cartridge FilterDo you also need Oil?Don't forget about your Air Filter! It's probably just as dirty and keeps things like dust and debris from damaging your engine.
$5.64$11.28Subtotal$773.28